This is a 1:72 scale
model of an Italeri HH-53C Jolly Green Giant built straight out of the box. This
is probably an old kit but Italeri's newer 'Super Stallion' kit is
definitely much much better. The detailing on the model is not very good - it
features raised panels and some of the parts don't fit too well. The assembly
instruction sheet is straight forward and the kit includes decals for an Israeli
version and a Vietnam era USAF version. I chose to build the USAF version simply
because there are not many pictures of this particular scheme featured on the
Internet. I'm hoping that my model will be (one of) the first HH-53's that
feature this camo scheme.
The fit was quite
mediocre, a few seams and gaps were encountered. The rear ramp door assembly is
quite susceptible to damage if you decide to keep it open. The hinge will break
off very easily if one is not too careful. If the ramp door is kept open, then,
its not easy to get all the parts glued cleanly. I had to leave out the support
struts. On the other hand if you decide to close the ramp door, then you are
likely to end up with a huge gap at the hinge joint.
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The paint job took the most
amount of time and effort. After painting the interiors, the basic fuselage was
assembled without the engines and fuel tanks. Then the clear parts were masked
using Tamiya masking tape and Scotch tape. The entire camouflage scheme was
traced out on the model using a pencil. The patterns were then transferred from
the model on to paper. I used normal A4 sized copier paper and sometimes tracing
paper for this. Each pattern was labelled to indicate its position on the
aircraft and the colour it would be masking.
(Remember to include alignment
markings on the paper pattern for reference or else you'll have no way of
knowing the exact position of the pattern on the fuselage. Pick out any
convenient panel lines or joint for this purpose.)
The nose wheel well had an
unusually wide gap at the joint. In such cases, I usually fill the gap with
modelling clay (plasticine) as here in India, its not very easy to get hold of
modelling putty. The clay is held in place by a layer of paint. As long as you
don't touch it, it stays in place quite nicely.
The entire model was then painted
in dark tan using an airbrush. Mask patterns were placed on strips of masking
tape stuck to a glass sheet and the patterns were traced out using a pencil. The
tape was cut to the correct shape using a very sharp blade. The cut masking tape
was placed on the model and the greens and white were added after two days of
drying time for each color. Through out the painting process, the rear ramp door
was held in the closed position using a strip of masking tape. The engines and
the tanks were also masked and painted simultaneously.
It is not easy to get matt finish
hobby enamel paints here in India. Instead I use commercial paints mixed to the
required shade using a computerized dispenser. One problem is that they are sold
at a minimum quantity of 1 litre and costs about an equivalent of 3 USD. So
there is a lot of paint that is wasted in the end. But sometimes, they might be
useful for other models also.
The rotor assembly went off well,
although the tail rotor pin is a bit too short to allow free movement of the
rotor. Application of decals on flat paints are always a pain-in-the-neck.
Future floor wax is not available here and the closest alternative is artist's
varnish. I need to try this out in the future. The model was wetted using
MicroSet decal setting solution before applying the decals. But this left a
slight stain on the paint job. To minimize silvering, I trimmed the decals as
much as possible. But there are places where silvering could not be avoided.
I was quite happy with the way
this model turned out in the end. I usually take my models to office and display
it to my colleagues. So far, the feedback has been very good although I believe
that there is scope for improvement. But, with lessons learnt, I really look
forward to building my Super Stallion kit in the future.
Praveen
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